Day 9 - Travel Day - Riomaggiore to Milan to Athens

Day 9 was a big travel day for us. Luckily we did some packing prep the night before so the morning of our departure from Riomaggiore wasn't as hectic as it could have been. 

We woke up and finalized the last pieces of our luggage and ate the last bits of food from our fridge. I'm glad we bought that pizza for the morning and for our travels. Our hotel host offers assistance with luggage from the hotel to the train station, so we waited for our helper to arrive. (Link to our hotel, Creuza de Ma)

When our helper showed up I hoisted my 50 lb suitcase on my shoulder and followed him down our hotel stairs as he carried Deanna's suitcase. We wound our way down the path and into the marina. We bobbed and weaved our way back up the hill into the town hallways for the last time and onward through the "underwater" tunnel. We finally emerged on the other side of the mountain at the Riomaggiore train station. I gave him a little thank you and we took our place on a bench waiting for our train. 

It was already pretty hot out at 10am, so we were glad to see the train show up with out too long of a wait. We jumped on and found a corner to stand in by the stairs and entryway. La Spezia was just the next stop away, so it was only about a 5 minute train ride. 

When we arrived at La Spezia station we hopped off and started walking through the thick crowds at the station. People were congregated in large tour groups and it was difficult to get to the exit. It was quite frustrating, but we eventually popped out the other side into the town of La Spezia. The goal here was to pick up a rental car that I had reserved online. The rental car place was only a few blocks away so rather than get a ride I decided we'd walk. We began rolling our luggage along the sidewalks and down into the main promenade of the town. This area was really cute. It was full of shops, fountains, art, and a generally nice vibe. I wish we had known what La Spezia was like, it would have been worth spending some time here. 

We found the Budget rental place and went inside. At this point my entire back was covered in sweat as well as the place on my shoulders where my backpack straps rested. Inside the car rental place there were already people at the counter and some people waiting. The folks working the counter desk were one man and one woman, both probably in their late 60s or 70s. The woman was only answering the phone and talking forever and the man was taking mental pauses here and there and getting distracted by little things the woman would say constantly. It felt like an hour for him to finish the current customer that was at his window, but he eventually did and the next person started getting help. It probably took him about 20 minutes to process him and get him his rental. 

Deanna waiting in the front of the rental office

Sweat

When it was my turn I went up to the counter with all my documents out. They both were very excited to see that I was from San Francisco. They mentioned in broken English that they had been to Sausalito many years ago and loved it. They also mentioned a restaurant by name, but I don't remember what they said. After a few minutes of the man going through my reservation he said "oh no, problem, we don't have your car." I wasn't surprised to hear this, so I just rolled with it and said "ok, no problem, I'll take what I can get."

I was observing their systems while they worked and noticed that they would take a copy of everything and put it in a never ending "to be filed" stack. They would then take another copy of some forms and put them over in the back on top of a filing cabinet also in a rather large stack of other forms. Then the lady would look through her basket of keys to see what keys they had. So apparently they weren't tracking their cars at all on the computer, but only through the basket of keys in front of her. 

When our order was complete we both followed the man outside as he lead us about a block away to a really small and uninspiring looking car. We piled our stuff inside and got in. This car was as stock as it could be and stick shift. So I started it up and backed out of our very narrow spot and into the very narrow and crowded street behind us. I shifted back to 1st gear and we were on our way. I quickly remembered how to drive stick liked I had never stopped. 

Our road trip wound through lush green valleys, by small towns, through deep tunnels, and through well known places like Parma. We stopped at a highway side Automart to pick up some food and drinks before getting back on our way. It took about 3 hours to get to Milan. At the Milan airport I think I did 3 laps around the airport before finally making it to the right rental car return driveway. It is not very clearly labeled for Budget returns. The dropoff was fast and we got our luggage and started into the terminal. 

We arrived probably about 4 hours before our boarding time. We made our way to the baggage check in area but nobody from Aegean airlines was there. I asked a nearby employee from another airline about it and they mentioned that you could only check bags within 2 hours of your flight time. "oh." So we went upstairs with all of our luggage and had some wine and a snack while we waited for time to pass. When it was around 2 hours away from our boarding we went back down to the Aegean airlines gate and hung out in front of the line. 2 ladies appeared soon and started prepping their lines. Within a few minutes a line of about 30 people was already formed behind us. Thankfully we were first! 

The lady called us forward and we were on our way in about 2 minutes after dropping our suitcases. We were both hungry so we stopped at Wagamama to have an early dinner. I had a curry chicken katsu and Deanna had what appeared to be pad thai, but she didn't order that. It all tasted pretty good and I had a sake with my meal. 

We went over to gate A3 which was indicated by the departures board and our paper tickets that we received. We bought some chips and waters and took a seat by an annoying kid and his dad. Our gate was currently boarding a different flight and airline so we sat by and watched as they were all loading. As time passed something started to feel a bit off, so we went over to the gate to double check that we were in the right place and boarding group. The gate description had not changed to our Airline or flight number. It still said Ryanair or something else. Panic started to set in for both of us. Our flight was boarding in 19 minutes!

We walked over to the departures board and watched as the Athens line item updated and rotated between the various Athens flights. Our flight popped up and the gate indicated was A78! YIKES. So we started a very brisk walk through what felt like the entire airport in search of gate A78. Along the way we would stop and double check our flight again to make sure nothing changed. Still A78. We were sweaty and stressed but pulled up to our gate with 2 minutes to spare before they started calling for boarding groups. Disaster avoided. When we got on the plane we were seated in the emergency row that was only 2 seats, which was amazing. I had forgotten that I was able to make changes and get us good seats for that flight. That took away all the stress of having to run across the airport to make our flight. 

When we landed in Athens and made our way to the baggage claim I stood there while I received 2 phone alerts about our gate change to A78 from A3. Then I received an email about the gate change. Thank you for the prompt updates Aegean airlines. lol. 

We grabbed our bags and proceeded out of the airport exit and found a gentleman with my name on a sign. I confirmed he was our ride from my scheduled taxi service and we followed him to his waiting Mercedes taxi cab. The cab was very clean and smelled nice. Our driver put his foot to the floor and got us to our Athens hotel in pretty quick fashion. 

Our hotel, the Niche Hotel Athens, sits atop ruins from the Valerian Wall (click for info). We checked into our hotel and went up to our room. The room was very nice and clean. We called downstairs to ask for them to bring up an extra luggage stand for our suitcases. I'm not sure why every hotel room doesn't already provide at least 2 luggage stands in the rooms. It's logical to assume that more than one person will be in a room and that more than one suitcase will want to be off the ground. We constantly have to ask for these when we travel. It's annoying. 

We were pretty tired, so we didn't go out and were already mostly full from our early dinner at Wagamama. We decided to go to bed. 

That is the end of day 9. 

Remember all photos will be linked here: Full Photo Dump

Day 7 - Stream Day Visit to Monterosso, Vernazza, Riomaggiore

Day 7 of our journey began with Deanna and I walking up into the stairwell that leads the central part of Riomaggiore. In the Riomaggiore hallways there are a few shops like scuba instruction, gear rental and a little café. We went into the café to grab some breakfast. We picked up a bottle of prosecco, two caprese focaccia sandwiches, and a cup of watermelon. 

We walked back down to the marina and marched up the long flights of stairs to our terrace. We sat down on the terrace to enjoy our food and drinks. We watched the sun grow larger on the colorful buildings of Riomaggiore while listening to the sound of tourist murmurs growing louder beneath us. It truly is a wonderful place to visit. 

The plan for this day was for me to go livestream on Twitch while Deanna relaxes in the pool and enjoys some time on her own as well. 

After lunch I packed up my streaming backpack and set out alone from our hotel to buy a ticket to Monterosso. Luckily our hotel was situation right above the ferry ticket booth. I picked up my ticket and walked around the mountain edge path down to the ferry dock. There was already a pretty significant line forming. 

I took a moment to show my viewers on Twitch the beach around the corner and then jumped in line to wait for the ferry. The ferry picks up from this dock every hour both Northbound and Southbound. I was waiting for the Northbound ferry. This ferry makes two stops before Monterosso to pick up passengers at Manarola and Vernazza. 

We loaded onto the ferry and were off into the Ligurian sea. The ferry has drinks for sale so I purchased a beer and went to the top deck to catch the views. After a few minutes we arrived at Manarola and unloaded some passengers and loaded some new ones. Then we were off toward Vernazza. The rain started to come down a bit so I went downstairs in the boat, picked up another beer, and watched out one of the forward windows. 

When we arrived in Monterosso the rain had increased significantly. I had checked the forecast in the morning and it said sunshine all day, so the rain and thunderstorms were quite a surprise. I didn't bring my umbrella, my backpack rain cover or anything rain ready. So I walked along the marina and into the cave tunnel to Monterosso al Mare beach on the Northern side. As I exited the tunnel I quickly got soaked by the rain. I kept on Northbound and took refuge from the rain in doorways, overhangs, and thick leaved trees. 

I came upon a restaurant with an open table and asked the server nearby if the seat was available. "Is this table open?" I said. "It is for customers" She replied. "I would like to be your customer then...." and took my seat at the table. The vibe was not very welcoming. I understand that this could be due to the rather large action cam residing on my shoulder, but still, I'm nice, you should be nice too. 

After that I struggled to order food from that lady or the other male server who was running around. I finally got my order in with the lady after the guy said he'd be right with me and ignored me. I ordered a half and half anchovy and calamari fried plate. I also ordered a Hugo spritz to try because I heard they were good. It's a drink with Prosecco and Elderflower and some other items, but I didn't like it as much as the Aperol spritz. I think it was just too sweet, but also kind of watered down tasting. I like the bitter sweet vibe of the Aperol spritz so much better. 

While I was waiting for my food, the male server decided to push the water from the canopy behind me off onto the ground below causing a pretty large splash that I felt. He didn't acknowledge me at all and walked off. It was pretty rude. 

When my food arrived I started eating it pretty fast so I could just leave the bad service I was receiving and be on my way. The anchovies were really good and the calamari was pretty tasty too. I ordered an Aperol spritz while I was finishing up and then left. 

After lunch I headed toward the train station and waited for the train to Vernazza. After a few minutes of waiting with the large crowd the train pulled up. I got on and stood in the corner by the doors and just proceeded to sweat profusely for the duration of the next couple stops before Vernazza. 

When my train stopped in Vernazza I got off and for the first time was asked for my train ticket in order to go downstairs into town. I went downstairs and under the train bridge and began to head up some stairs. I had no idea where I was going but the goal was to go up the terraces across from the main buildings in Vernazza. I wanted to get a great photo from there. 

I hiked up higher, stone step after stone step. I did this for a while and then ran into an older gentleman on the steps and talked with him and confirmed that I was on the right path to the best view. With renewed motivation I continued heavily breathing and sweating my way to the top of this series of stairs. When I emerged from beneath the roofline of the town I was now on an open path that wrapped around the side of the mountain that I wanted to be on. I stopped to catch my breath and admire the view. To the left of my view is the mountainside vineyard where local wine is produced. I could hear the clanking of the tiny train they use to reach the crops. I took a photo but it was hard to see the driver. I'll post a clip below. To the right were a number of rooflines and off in the distance the view of the Doria Castle or tower at the point of Vernazza. 

Wine Train Clip: https://www.twitch.tv/jamonitmack/clip/SleepyBeautifulClipzFeelsBadMan-VHTA0Qrw3IoS8uJb 

After some photos and a rest I continued my hike around the face of this mountain and finally reached the point I wanted to be at. I was now above the marina, beach and main areas of the town. I could see all the building faces and the Castle across the water from me. What an amazing site to see. This spot was very high on my goals list for this trip. Standing there, sweating, hot, tired, and maybe a little miserable I was also very satisfied to have made it. What a fun experience. I took a moment to really soak it in and then continued down the mountain into the beach area. 

After a quick look around the beach I followed the signs that pointed to the Doria Castle. These steps were very steep and the corridors very narrow that led up to the castle. Before you get to the final flight of stairs there is a tiny booth that charges you admission to the castle top. I quickly paid the man and climbed the last stairs to the top. Whewwwww. What a cool view from the top of this point at the castle. When you get close the castle you can see that they have wrapped it in chicken wire and support straps to keep it from falling down. I'm hoping they are just renovating it and will eventually remove those items. Luckily from a distance you can't see it so it still looks cool. 

I walked around the top of the castle area and took some photos. At one point I saw a lazy cat enjoying the little perch it had above the Sea. A lady tried petting it and quickly got a swat from the cat. It was funny to observe. I had my fill of the castle and started back down the narrow hallways and steps to try to find my way back to the train station. 

I found the pathway through the middle of the town and stopped at a couple shops along the way. I found some trinkets for gifts and then continued on to the train station. 

A cool tunnel near the town center in Vernazza

I had purchased the Cinque Terre train pass so that also allowed me to use the train station bathrooms at no charge. Normally you would have to pay 1 Euro. The bathrooms at Vernazza station are very nice and have an attendant outside. I then went to the platform and waited for the train back to Riomaggiore. The train came and I hopped on, drenched in sweat. I stood in the entryway and clung to a handrail so I could get off as quickly as possible at the next stop. It was only about a 5-10 minute trip to Riomaggiore. We stopped once in Manarola and continued to Riomaggiore where I got off. 

Near the tunnel through the mountain there is a lift that takes you up to one of the mountain terraces. I paid 1 Euro and took the lift up. At this point I had a nice view of a smaller marina that is below the train station and a nice view of the Northern part of Riomaggiore. I hiked around the terrace toward the main side of Riomaggiore. As I came around the side of the mountain I had a nice view of the main marina and town center from above and the Southern faces of the towns buildings. I took a few photos and then kept on making my way to the next lift which was over by a large church. I paid another Euro and went up to the top of the mountain. At this point I hiked up a bit more to where the clock tower is and took some additional photos. The view up here was pretty impressive too. 

Sweating on the train

Manarola Station

Castello di Riomaggiore

For my descent back into Riomaggiore I decided to hike the entire way. Along the way I saw lots of narrow side pathways and day to day life such as hanging laundry etc. I followed a path along the edge of the mountain and came out at the top of the town center. This was just up the hill from restaurants that we had eaten at earlier in the week. I didn't realize how close we were to the actual path that led to the top of the mountain. 

I kept on down through the town and stopped to pick up some Aperol Spritz for us to enjoy. I ventured back up the steep steps to our hotel and met up with Deanna. We sat there in the orange glow of sunset and sipped on our cool refreshing drinks. We talked to my stream chat for a bit and just a few minutes later the sun took it's final dip behind the edge of the sea. 

For dinner we went up into the town center and tried to get a table, but had a tough time as it was after 8pm. We checked nearly every restaurant in town and none had open tables. We decided to order pizza take away from Il Maggiore, which turned out to be pretty good pizza. 

That was the end of a very long and sweaty day 7. 

Remember all photos will be linked here: Full Photo Dump